EucBuddy — User Manual

Device & buttons

EucBuddy runs on M5Stick-S3 and LilyGO T-Display-S3. Both use the same A/B actions; their button placement and power controls differ.

Part	What it does
A Main button	Large front button on StickS3; upper orange button on T-Display-S3. Short press = next / select; hold ~1.2 s = open menu.
B Action button	Small side button on StickS3; lower orange button on T-Display-S3. Short press = confirm / back (context-dependent, e.g. headlight, horn or trip reset — the ride-screen action is configurable, see Section 6).
PWR Power	On StickS3, the side button turns on, wakes and switches off the device. On T-Display-S3, use either A or B to wake from sleep; its reset key is handled as a sleep request during normal operation, not a battery-disconnect switch. Both boards have Power off in the menu. Section 11.
USB-C	Charging. Plugging into a powered-off device opens the charging screen (Section 10).

Throughout this guide A is the main button and B is the action button.

M5Stick-S3 — EucBuddy runs on it

LilyGO T-Display-S3 — the same controls, a wider screen

T-Display-S3: fitting the battery

The T-Display-S3 case arrives without its battery: you fit it once, with a small Phillips screwdriver, in about five minutes. Use the battery listed on the Get one page — other sizes and connectors will not fit. M5Stick-S3 has a built-in battery and needs none of this.

The photos show a 702060 test cell. Buy the 702050 battery from the Get one link — the size printed on yours will differ from the photos.

Then charge it over USB-C (Section 10) and continue with first start & pairing.

First start & pairing

Favorite wheels

Star the wheels you ride so they're always easy to find. Favorites jump to the top of the scan list and get a star ★. You can star up to 32 wheels.

A custom name then shows in place of the Bluetooth name on the scan list, and top-left on the Dashboard instead of the vendor (e.g. "My Sherman" instead of "Veteran"). Long names scroll by themselves on the highlighted row.

The six ride screens

Once connected, a short press of A cycles six screens (default order): Dashboard → Custom 3 → Power → Trip → Stats → Custom 1 and back. You can reorder them or hide ones you don't use in the WiFi panel (Section 9). Two of the six are yours to configure — Custom 3 (three values) and Custom 1 (one value) — under Dashboard setup → Dashboard config (Section 6). Each screen is the same idea — a different headline value:

1 · Dashboard — live ride

• Big speed (cyan below 30 km/h, yellow from 30, red from 45 — keyed on real km/h, not miles).
• Wheel battery %, voltage and current.
• A short press of B runs your Press B action — headlight by default (if your wheel supports it), or horn. Set it under Dashboard setup (Section 6).

2 · Custom 3 — three values, your choice

• One big value on the left, two small ones stacked on the right — you pick all three.
• Out of the box it's the classic PWM safety screen: PWM % big (how hard the motor works; near 100 % = near a cut-out) with speed and voltage beside it. green <80 · yellow 80–90 · red 90+ (back off).
• Change any slot under Dashboard setup → Dashboard config or in the WiFi panel; short B = your Press B action (headlight by default).

3 · Power — battery & output

• Tall battery gauge and percentage down the left, with voltage and watts below it. The watts are what the pack is actually delivering, and take the same colours as the current below — pink drawing, cyan on regen.
• Current is the hero on the right — pink when drawing, cyan on regen — over a slim 0–100 A load bar.
• Speed and temperature sit in the footer.

4 · Trip — distance

• RIDE — distance of the current ride.
• TRIP — resettable counter.
• Press B to reset the trip (confirm popup).

5 · Stats — per-wheel stats

• TOTAL — wheel odometer.
• Ride count, top speed and peak current.
• Press B to clear the peaks (confirm popup).

6 · Custom 1 — one value, your choice

• A single value, big and centred — you pick which.
• Speed, battery, voltage, current, power, temp, PWM, trip, ride, total, ride time or energy used.
• Set via Dashboard config in Dashboard setup or the WiFi panel; short B = your Press B action (headlight by default).

Button cheat-sheet

Menu — every option

Hold A from any screen to open the main menu — an animated carousel of icons. A moves between them, B opens the one in the middle, holding A takes you back. The item you're already on is hidden, so you only see where you can go. Names below are the on-device labels:

Dashboard setup

Choose Dashboard setup from the carousel to configure how ride screens behave. Press A to move and B to change a value. The list shows a few rows at once and scrolls as you move through it.

The six backgrounds

Same dashboard, one setting — Background repaints only the backdrop. Telemetry, colours and layout never change. Blue is the default; B steps through them and the row's live swatches show what you're picking.

The tints are lifted a few percent here so the hues survive a bright phone screen — on the device they sit much closer to black, which is exactly what keeps the telemetry crisp. The coloured frame is just this guide's swatch border.

Dashboard config — the two Custom screens

Four rows, one per slot. B steps each one through the same list of values: speed, battery, voltage, current, power, temp, PWM, trip, ride, total (odometer), ride time (TIME, mm:ss and h:mm:ss past an hour) or ride energy (ENERGY, Wh) — the last two are explained in Section 4.

Leaving the defaults alone gives you exactly the old fixed PWM screen. Whenever PWM sits in the Custom 3 main slot it keeps its safety colours and the set calib / PWM est tags described in Section 4. All four slots are also in the WiFi panel.

Settings

From the carousel pick Settings. Move with A, change with B. Names match the on-screen labels.

My wheels — favorite wheels & PWM calibration

The carousel's My Wheels icon lists every wheel you've starred (Section 3). If you haven't starred any yet, it prompts you to hold B on a wheel in the scan list. A moves down the list, B opens the highlighted wheel. A small cyan dot means the wheel already sends real PWM; a green dot means you have set a PWM estimate calibration. Each wheel's detail screen shows:

Why calibrate? Wheels that don't report their real motor duty (KingSong, classic InMotion, older Begode) show no PWM until you set the two values above — then EucBuddy estimates the duty from live speed and voltage using your wheel's calibration values (marked “PWM est” on the Custom 3 screen). Wheels that already send real PWM don't need this. Calibration is stored per wheel, kept across power-offs and updates, and can also be set from the WiFi panel's My Wheels page section (Section 9). Editing it while that wheel is connected updates the live estimate at once.

EUC health

Open the EUC health row of a wheel's detail screen to see the diagnostics that wheel broadcasts about itself. A scrolls the rows, B asks the connected wheel for a fresh reading, holding A goes back.

The header says HEALTH LIVE when the wheel is connected right now and HEALTH LAST when you're looking at the last snapshot EucBuddy saw — dimmed, so you can tell at a glance. Missing fields read Not sent rather than pretending to be OK. How much you see depends entirely on how talkative your wheel is.

Blackbox — battery map

The carousel's Blackbox icon opens a small logger that records a battery curve to the device (about one row per second — handy for tuning). Inside:

Download the CSV from the WiFi panel (Section 9).

Alerting — speed limiter & warning beeps

The carousel's Alerting icon groups the speed limiter and the on-device warning beeps. Move with A, change with B.

Option	What it does
Limiter	Master on / off for the speed limiter — off by default. While off, holding B won't arm the cap and the top-bar glyph shows a cross. Turn it on to use the limiter.
Wheel alert	While the limiter is armed, also set the wheel's own speed warning to 1 km/h below the cap. Available for KingSong, supported modern Leaperkim/Nosfet wheels and the InMotion P6 and V14. Changed while armed, it waits for the same stop as arming and counts only once the wheel confirms it. This row is grey and cannot be changed while Limiter is off.
Speed limit	The hard-cap value the limiter writes to the wheel, in km/h (5 km/h steps). It only ever lowers the wheel's own maximum: set above it, the wheel keeps its own.
Speed alert	Beep when your speed reaches the threshold, plus Speed val — the threshold.
PWM alert	Beep when the motor load (PWM) reaches the threshold, plus PWM val — the threshold.
Batt alert	Beep when the wheel battery drops to the threshold, plus Batt val — the threshold.

Alerting menu

Speed limiter (hard cap)

First turn on Limiter — it's off by default. Then, on any ride screen (Dashboard, Custom 3, Power, Trip, Stats or Custom 1), hold B to request the cap (with Long press B set to Speed limit). EucBuddy waits for fresh telemetry showing at most 1 km/h continuously for one second before writing and verifying your Speed limit. A blinking green gauge means pending, not an active cap. A second confirmation beep means the cap was verified. If verification still fails after one retry while stopped, EucBuddy cancels the request and restores the original settings. Hold again after it is armed to restore the wheel's original max. EucBuddy saves the wheel's current limit before changing it, so disabling the limiter restores the rider's original setting.

If Wheel alert is on, arming also moves the supported wheel's own warning threshold to cap minus 1 km/h. KingSong's three alarm thresholds are moved together; Leaperkim/Nosfet use their separate speed-alarm setting; the InMotion P6 moves both of its warning levels and the V14 its single warning. EucBuddy saves every affected value first and restores each one exactly when the limiter is released. Changing the option or cap while armed keeps the original snapshot safe.

InMotion P6 and V14: the cap is written the way InMotion's own app writes it. A cap below the wheel's speed warning moves the warning to cap minus 1 km/h even with Wheel alert off, as the app does; it is restored exactly with the cap, also when the wheel's values were set in mph. On the P6, EucBuddy first opens the wheel's settings session, as the app does, so arming can take a few seconds longer. Support for these two wheels is new and still being tested on real wheels.

KingSong: arming temporarily selects the wheel's beep warning mode, even with Wheel alert off. The original voice mode is saved and restored with the limiter, without changing the light mode. Arming is blocked if that original mode cannot be read.

The horn is a momentary wheel command, not a saved wheel setting. It is supported on Begode/Gotway, KingSong, Veteran/Leaperkim, Nosfet and InMotion; on an unsupported wheel the action simply does nothing. EucBuddy plays a short local confirmation cue as well.

The top-bar limiter glyph

A small glyph and number sit on the top bar, just left of EucBuddy's own battery. The number is the wheel's current max-speed limit in km/h (a dash while it's being read, ∞ if the wheel has no limit set); the glyph shows the state. When you arm the cap, the number becomes your Speed limit value:

Connections — WiFi & link info

The carousel's Connections icon gathers everything WiFi in one place. A moves between rows, B changes the highlighted one, holding A goes back. WiFi is off by default. Always starts the config connection at boot; Weather can also use the stored home network.

Using Home WiFi

Save your network's name and password in the WiFi panel (Connections page, Home WiFi card) — no update needed — or use Configure WiFi in the web flasher. For the config panel on your home network, choose Type = Home WiFi, then WiFi = Session or Always. Then open http://eucbuddy.local from any device on that network. If that name doesn't load, use the numeric address shown in Connections → Info.

• Only 2.4 GHz networks work — the chip has no 5 GHz radio.
• A popup reports the result: WiFi connected with the address, or WiFi failed with the reason. A failed join is deliberate about giving up — the radio goes back off and WiFi returns to Off and Type to Access point. Check the credentials before trying again.
• If you pick Home WiFi without having set a network, EucBuddy says No home WiFi — Set it in flasher and stays on Access point.
• A Factory reset erases the stored network along with everything else.

Weather on the charger

To show weather while USB is charging a switched-off EucBuddy, set Charge screen to Weather in Charge setup (Section 10.2). Section 8 covers that screen in full — both ways in, the glyphs, colours, forecast strip and city.

MyBuddy — your virtual pet

MyBuddy is a little pet living inside your EucBuddy. Open it from the menu (MyBuddy).

• Tap B to feed one zap from the bowl. If the bowl is empty or your buddy is fully grown, you can still pet it for free.
• Each full kilometre ridden earns one zap, regardless of km / miles display units. Zap Dash is another way to fill the bowl. Feeding, not just earning, advances your buddy's growth.
• Hold B to open the MyBuddy / Zap Dash selector. Tap A to switch, B to enter; hold A to return to the main menu.
• Your buddy looks around, yawns, stretches, spins, winks and hops. Feeding triggers chewing; these reactions don't cost extra zaps or create a hunger penalty.
• Infrared greetings require two IR-equipped devices (StickS3), both showing MyBuddy. Standard T-Display-S3 has no IR. Greetings stop while the selector or game is open.
• Give it a name in the WiFi panel (Section 9) — it shows top-left on the pet screen.
• Hold A for the menu, then Dashboard to ride.

Growth stages: Mten → Aero → Lynx → Sherman → Griffin. Their feeding targets are 30 / 60 / 120 / 240 / 480 zaps per stage (930 total to fill the last one). Your buddy gains accessories as it grows; the same character appears in Zap Dash.

MyBuddy screen

Zap Dash

Wheel charging? Winter keeping you inside? Take your Buddy for a tiny ride. It rolls forward automatically: jump ground obstacles and duck under overhead hazards. A collision ends the run. No wheel connection or WiFi is needed.

Start a run

1. Open MyBuddy from the main menu.
2. Hold B to open the two-item selector, then tap A to highlight Zap Dash.
3. Tap B to start, then release both buttons. The screen shows READY for about 0.9 s after you release both buttons.

Two buttons, two moves

These controls are the same on both boards and do not use your ride-screen B assignments. On the pictured LilyGO, A is the upper orange button and B the lower one; see button locations.

What lies ahead

The first level needs 10 cleared obstacles, and each level after it two more (12, 14, …). Completing a level earns one zap. The pace picks up as you progress through five environments — we'll leave the later ones for you to discover. An obstacle counts only after it has fully left the screen.

Illustrative frames rendered from the game's scenery, character and HUD code, not device photos. Example values; fonts and status-bar styling are approximated. Your Buddy's accessories depend on its growth stage.

Score, levels and zaps

• SC is your score, increasing with distance travelled in the game. LV is the current level; the counter in the bottom-right corner (for example 3/10) shows obstacles cleared in this level out of the number needed to finish it.
• A completed level puts one zap straight into MyBuddy's bowl and saves it. A collision doesn't take earned zaps away, but an unfinished level gives no partial reward.
• Back on MyBuddy, tap B to feed the earned zaps one at a time. Game score is not ridden kilometres and does not add to your trip or ride history.
• BEST is the saved high score; +N ZAPS is this run's reward, not the bowl total. The result stays up for about 1.6 seconds, then returns to the selector after a collision.

What to avoid

• Don't hold A to stay crouched: a duck ends by itself after about 0.6 s and a long hold exits. Holding B also exits — it doesn't keep you jumping.
• Don't duck too early or jump into an overhead hazard. Use short, timed taps; another jump won't work while airborne.
• Don't cut power to leave a run. Use the hold-to-exit controls or normal power-off so an improved best can be saved. RECORD NOT SAVED means the best-score write failed.
• A Factory reset clears your Buddy progress and Zap Dash best as well as other saved data.

Sound: on StickS3, Settings → Sound enables short cues for the start, jump, duck, cleared obstacle, earned zap and collision. Standard T-Display-S3 has no speaker; silence is expected.

Zap Dash requires firmware 0.5.00 or later; tap-to-duck: 0.5.01; all five environments: 0.5.02; game sounds: 0.5.03; 10+ obstacle levels: 0.5.05; level counter showing the real target: 0.5.07. Check your version in Info and use an available build for your selected board.

Weather

EucBuddy can also be a little weather station: a big clock, the temperature right now, the sky outside and what the next few hours look like. It shows up in two places — as its own screen from the menu, and instead of the battery animation while the device sits on a charger. Both need a home WiFi network stored on the device; the forecast is the only thing EucBuddy fetches from the internet.

Two ways in

• No network stored? Both routes say Weather needs WiFi — Set it in flasher and nothing else happens. Store one in the web flasher or the WiFi panel first (Section 9).
• WiFi switched off? Opening Weather from the menu asks first — B turns the radio on just for this page and puts your WiFi setting back to Off when you leave. On the charger it needs no permission: the device is on external power by definition, which is the one case where EucBuddy brings up WiFi by itself.
• While the page is open it owns the radio, so an active config panel pauses and comes back when you leave. WiFi and Bluetooth share one antenna (Section 9).

What's on the screen

The sky glyphs

The forecast's condition codes collapse into eight conditions — a finer set stops reading clearly on a small screen. Clear and partly-cloudy skies each get a second face: a sun by day, a crescent moon with stars by night, chosen from the daylight flag for your city rather than guessed from the hour. Anything the forecast doesn't name at all stays a plain ?.

Temperature colours

Cold blues through a temperate green into warm ambers, so a glance at the hue tells you the weather before you read the number. The forecast row uses the same scale.

The steps are always these Celsius values — switching to °F changes the number you read, not where the colour turns.

The forecast strip

Four horizons come from the same request — +1 h, +2 h, +4 h and +8 h. The strip shows one at a time, holds it about five seconds and slides the next one in. The quiet time on the right is the hour it actually lands on.

The strip above cycles exactly as the device does.

Your city

• The built-in default is Warsaw, and a Factory reset puts it back.
• The clock follows the city: the time offset comes down with the forecast (already adjusted for daylight saving) and is remembered, so the clock is right from the next start. Right after a change the time is hidden until the new one lands.
• Opened over EucBuddy's own hotspot, the panel has no route to the internet to search with — it saves the plain name and the device looks up the coordinates on its next fetch. Nothing to do differently; it just resolves a moment later.

While it works — and when it can't

Until there is something real to show, the screen shows no readings at all rather than a half-filled dashboard: an animated mark, what it's doing, and why if it failed. It keeps trying — a refresh every 15 minutes, a retry about a minute after a failure — and never quietly swaps itself for the battery view.

WiFi config panel

EucBuddy can host its own WiFi hotspot with a config panel in your phone's browser — every setting with a bigger screen and a keyboard. WiFi is off by default.

The panel is laid out like the device menu. Along the top is one page for each carousel item. Below it, a status bar shows EucBuddy's battery, the connected wheel and its battery, the network, and a pulsing dot while the page is in touch with the device. On a phone or tablet the pages fold into a ☰ menu, and a short status sits next to it. Home has one tile per page with a live summary. Switches and choices save the moment you change them, and a short message confirms each one. Text fields have their own Save button. Changes made on the device show up in the page too.

In the Home WiFi card, type the network name and password and press Save WiFi, so you can set or replace it without re-flashing. The password is written to the device but never read back to the page; only the network name comes out again. Only 2.4 GHz networks work. Forget (with a confirmation) erases it and puts back what depended on it: the link Type returns to Access point, and Charge screen returns to Battery only if it was Weather (a Control view is left as Control). The link you are reading the panel over is deliberately left alone; the change applies at the next start.

On the Rides page every entry lists its ride time and the watt-hours used, and both can be edited by hand. Type the time as mm:ss (for example 12:34), as h:mm:ss for a long ride, or as plain seconds. Leave a field empty to say that value was never measured; it then shows as a dash instead of a misleading zero. Bad input is refused with a message rather than silently saved.

Downloads

Both CSV exports — Rides and the battery map (Blackbox page) — are run from the panel:

• The battery-map button fetches the file in small verified pieces and shows “Downloading … %” as it goes, retrying a piece by itself if the WiFi hiccups, so even a large log comes through intact.
• Using the panel counts as activity, and a download in progress holds the device awake for the whole transfer — auto-sleep can't shut the hotspot down mid-file.
• If something does go wrong (busy device, empty log), you get a clear message instead of an empty or truncated file.

Charging

Plugging USB-C into a powered-off device opens a dedicated charging screen: dimmed so it can sit on a desk. Choose Battery, Weather or Control in Charge setup → Charge screen (Section 10.2).

Wheel charging monitor

Charge your wheel and EucBuddy side by side, and let EucBuddy keep an eye on the wheel. While it sits on its own charging screen it finds one of your favorite wheels, reads its battery over Bluetooth and shows the level along the bottom of the screen. When the wheel reaches the level you picked, for example 90 % for everyday riding or 100 % before a long trip, the screen flashes and EucBuddy beeps. You don't need to keep checking the wheel or have the phone app open.

Before you start

• The wheel must be a favorite (Section 3): on the scan list, hold B on it to star it. Only starred wheels can be watched.
• The monitor runs on the charging screen (plug USB-C into a switched-off EucBuddy) and on the carousel's Charge control page in normal use.
• On the Charge page the same alert is a popup (“Press a key to stop”), a WHEEL … A/B = OK banner, the rising triple and a flashing backlight every 10 s until a key press — on any screen, and that press does nothing else. On a T-Display the flashing is the alarm. A level the wheel already holds when you open the page does not alert.
• The wheel must be switched on while it charges. Most wheels turn their Bluetooth off when they are powered down.
• Keep EucBuddy within Bluetooth range, ideally in the same room as the wheel.
• Close the phone app or disconnect it from the wheel. Most wheels accept only one Bluetooth connection at a time, and whoever connects first keeps it.

Set it up (once)

1. Open the carousel's Charge icon and hold B for Charge setup. Move to Wheel with A and press B until your wheel's name shows. Each press steps Off → your favorites, in list order → Off.
2. Move to Alert and press B to pick a level: Off → 50 → 60 → 70 → 80 → 85 → 90 → 95 → 100 % → Off. The default is 100 %. With Measure by (the row above) on Voltage, the alert is a pack voltage instead: B adds 1 V, hold B to step fast (Section 10.2).
3. Hold A to leave. Both choices are remembered across power-offs.

Prefer the phone? In the WiFi panel (Section 9) open Charge and use the Charging screen card. Watch a wheel lists your favorites, and Alert at lets you tick several levels from 50 % to 100 % (50, 60, 70, 80, 85, 90, 95, 100). Several levels show on the device as “N levels”. Pressing B on that row afterwards starts again from Off.

Every time you charge

1. Plug the wheel into its charger and switch the wheel on.
2. Switch EucBuddy off and plug it into USB-C. The charging screen opens in the Battery, Weather or Control view you chose in Charge screen.
3. The bottom line shows searching…, then connecting…. Within about half a minute you should see the wheel's name and battery.
4. Leave both alone. When the wheel reaches your level, EucBuddy alerts you (see below).
5. Done: press A or B to start EucBuddy normally, or unplug it to switch it off. Either way the monitor lets go of the wheel.

Reading the bottom line

When the wheel reaches your level

• The bottom line becomes a green WHEEL 90%  A/B = OK banner and the backlight flashes. On M5Stick-S3 a rising triple beep also sounds. A standard T-Display-S3 has no speaker, so it only flashes.
• The beep plays even with Sound off. You asked for this alert by choosing a wheel and a level.
• It repeats every 10 seconds until you press a key, however long that takes.
• The first press of A or B only stops the alert. The next press starts EucBuddy normally, as usual.

How alerts are decided

• Each level alerts once per charge. A wheel that drops back to 89 % and climbs to 90 % again does not alert a second time.
• Levels the wheel has already passed are skipped. Plug in a wheel at 92 % with alerts at 80 and 90 %, and you get no alert at all. Only the levels still ahead count.
• A level must hold for 3 seconds before it alerts, so a reading that flickers across the line alerts only once.
• Missed while the link was down? If the wheel passed one or more levels while the connection was lost, you get one alert on reconnecting, for the highest of them.

If it doesn't find the wheel

• Stays on “searching…”: is the wheel switched on? Is the phone app still connected to it? Move EucBuddy closer.
• The bottom line just says “A / B = power on”: no wheel is selected. Check Wheel in Charge setup. Removing a wheel from your favorites also sets it back to Off.
• Wheel says “No favorites”: star the wheel first (Section 3).
• It never alerts: check Alert in Charge setup isn't Off, and remember that levels the wheel had already passed when monitoring started are skipped.

Charge control & smart plug

Charge control shows your wheel and the smart plug feeding its charger on one screen, and can switch the plug off when the wheel reaches a level you choose. Stopping at 80 or 90 % is kinder to the pack than sitting at 100 %, and you don't have to be there to unplug it. EucBuddy talks to the plug directly over your home WiFi: no cloud, no account, no phone app.

Two ways to see it

Set it up (once)

1. Store your home network on EucBuddy (WiFi panel → Connections → Home WiFi, or the web flasher) and put the plug on the same network. Reserve the plug's address in your router, so it never changes.
2. Open the Charge page and hold B for Charge setup. Move to Plug (it reads Find >) and press B. Confirm Find plug on network? with B (it asks Enable WiFi and find plug on network? when WiFi is off).
3. A popup shows the search: Joining home WiFi…, then Searching the network N%. It stops at the first plug and ends with Plug found and its address, which is saved (+N more when it saw others too), or No plug found. On a quiet network a full search takes up to about 3 minutes. You can dismiss the popup: the search carries on and reports the result.
4. Other endings: WiFi join failed (check the home network), Plug search stopped (the WiFi link changed during the search, for example the WiFi panel was switched on; search again), Home WiFi starting (the panel is still joining; try again in a moment) and Already searching. If the panel's Find on network is already running, EucBuddy follows that search instead and nothing is saved: you choose the plug in the panel (see below).
5. No plug found? Type its address in the WiFi panel: Charge page → Smart plug card → Address → Save address. The router's device list or the plug's own page shows it.
6. Choose what the alert and the switch-off go by with Measure by (below Wheel): Battery (the wheel's level), Voltage (its pack voltage; then Alert and Plug off at are both in volts) or Timer (the switch-off only; the alert stays in %). Then set Plug off at Off → 50 → 60 → 70 → 80 → 85 → 90 → 95 → 100 %, with Voltage whole volts (see below), or with Timer Plug off after Off → 30 min → 1 → 1.5 → 2 → 3 → 4 → 5 → 6 → 8 h. Arming either also sets the charging screen to Control, because the switch-off works there.
7. Optional: pick the watched Wheel and its Alert level (Section 10.1).

Opening the page: WiFi

The plug is reached over your home network, so the page may need WiFi. It asks only when it would change something:

Said no, or switched WiFi off later? The plug side shows no WiFi and B asks again. While the page is open it reconnects to the plug by itself if the link drops.

Reading the screen

Buttons

Statistics (A)

Press A on the Charge page for its second screen, and again to go back. B still switches the plug, and hold B still opens Charge setup.

• Two graphs of the last 10 minutes, one point every 5 seconds, newest on the right, a faint line every 2 minutes: the charge current (the same one the page shows, “~” values from the plug included) and the wheel's pack voltage. Each shows the latest value on the left and the window's low–high on the right. A stretch without readings is a gap.
• Energy delivered this session, in Wh, from the plug's meter. A plug without one falls back to the wheel's own volts × amps, shown with “~”.
• plug: the lowest and highest mains voltage the plug measured this session.
• A session starts when you open the Charge page from the carousel. The statistics keep counting while you look at either screen or Charge setup, and in the background while the plug session runs.

The wheel on the page

• A wheel is connected: the page shows that wheel, whichever it is.
• No wheel connected: the page looks for the wheel picked in Charge setup → Wheel and connects it as soon as it is in range, staying on the page. The wheel side shows searching…, then connecting…; the plug keeps being watched meanwhile. A failed connect is tried again after a few seconds. BLE busy means a connect attempt has not finished for 45 seconds, usually because the signal is very weak (EucBuddy too far from the wheel, or behind metal): it clears by itself when Bluetooth answers, and the search carries on; if it stays, restart EucBuddy. Leaving the page, or opening Charge setup, stops the search.
• Like on the charging screen: the wheel must be switched on, and the phone app disconnected.

Charge current and the “~”

Most wheels measure current on the controller, not on the charge port: the charger feeds the battery packs directly. A KingSong KS-16X, for example, shows about 0.3 A of its own electronics while its charger pushes more than 2 A into the pack. So EucBuddy works the charge current out from the plug: plug watts × 0.88 (a typical charger's efficiency) ÷ pack voltage. With 236 W and 98.4 V that is about 2.1 A; the wheel's own reading is used instead whenever it agrees with that figure. The estimate is shown with ~, and it is only as good as the plug's watts (Section 10.3).

Switching off at a level

• The wheel's battery must hold the level for 3 seconds. A wheel that is already at or above it when charge control starts is switched off too.
• Only the wheel picked in Charge setup → Wheel counts. With no wheel picked, the connected one does.
• EucBuddy only ever switches the plug off, and only once per charge. It sends one request at a time and waits for each to be carried out, even on a slow link. After three requests the plug didn't obey, or 5 minutes without confirmation, the page shows cut fail (a late confirmation still counts).
• Left the page for more than a minute while a switch-off was still on its way? Nobody watched the plug, so that switch-off is forgotten. When you come back, a plug that is on is switched off again once the level holds; one you switched off yourself is simply left off. A switch-off you cancelled with B stays cancelled.
• Want to top up anyway? Press B to switch the plug back on (it also cancels a switch-off still on its way). EucBuddy won't switch it off again for this charge, even if the page reconnects. It arms again when the wheel reads 5 % below the level: a new charge.
• It needs a live wheel reading. Without one, or if WiFi, the plug or EucBuddy goes away, the plug simply stays as it is: on. The worst case is a full charge, never a plug left in an unknown state.
• Wheel speed plays no part: only the battery level acts.
• On the home network it keeps working after you leave the page, and with the screen dark in Power save. The Charge page and a running plug session never power EucBuddy off by themselves.

Switching off at a voltage

A wheel whose battery percentage is coarse or jumps on the charger can be cut on its pack voltage instead. Set Measure by to Voltage and choose Plug off at; the Alert row is then a voltage too, set the same way, and fires once when the pack holds it for 3 seconds (a pack already there when watching starts does not alert). Switching to Voltage with no alert voltage yet starts it at the Plug off at voltage. Everything in Switching off at a level above applies the same way: the voltage must hold for 3 seconds, the plug is switched off once per charge, and topping up with B is not fought.

• On EucBuddy, B adds 1 V; hold B to step fast. After 200 V it wraps to Off. From Off it starts just above what the wheel reads now (40 V with no wheel), so stepping up never stops on a voltage the pack already holds.
• For a precise value, use the WiFi panel: Charge → Smart plug → Switch off at takes 40–200 V to 0.1 V (say 100.5). On EucBuddy, B then goes on to the next whole volt.
• It needs a wheel that reports its pack voltage. Without a live reading the plug stays on.
• The voltage is measured while charging, so it reads a little higher than the same pack at rest. It arms again when the wheel reads 5 % below the set voltage (95 V for 100 V): a new charge.

Switching off by timer

Prefer a fixed charging time, or can't connect the wheel? Set Measure by to Timer and choose Plug off after. The clock starts each time the plug turns ON, and when it runs out EucBuddy switches the plug off, with the same popup and beep.

• It needs no wheel. It can count on running to the end because the Charge page and its plug session never power EucBuddy off.
• The timer lives in EucBuddy's memory: restarting EucBuddy starts it again. A dropped link, or leaving and reopening the page within a minute, does not; changing the time does. Away from the page for longer (with WiFi on, leaving it ends the plug link), nobody watched the plug, so the clock starts again from the full time when you come back.
• Switched off by hand before the time is up? The clock stops; the next time the plug turns on it starts from the full time. The same after the timer switched it off: switching it back on gives a new full period.

In the WiFi panel

The panel's Charge page (Section 9) has three cards:

If it doesn't work

• No plug found: some routers hide devices from each other. Type the plug's address in the panel instead.
• no answer: is the plug powered and on the same network? Did its address change? Reserve it in the router.
• Slow or flickering readings: the 2.4 GHz channel may be crowded. Put your router on whichever of channels 1, 6 or 11 the neighbours use least; two of your own access points on the same channel slow each other down. (EucBuddy's own access point picks the quietest of those three by itself.)
• Wheel shows only a fraction of an amp: see Charge current and the “~” above.

Plug calibration

A Tasmota plug measures with a small metering chip that is calibrated per plug. Cheap plugs are often sold uncalibrated, or lose it when they are re-flashed, and then report nonsense: the plug this feature was built with said 33 V on a 230 V socket. EucBuddy checks the three readings against each other and, when they can't all be true, shows needs calib. instead of volts and amps. The WiFi panel names the readings that disagree.

Calibrate it in Tasmota

1. Open the plug's own page in a browser (its address, for example http://192.168.10.142) → Consoles → Console.
2. Plug a known resistive load into it and switch it on: a kettle, a heater or an incandescent lamp. Not the wheel charger: its power factor makes watts differ from volts × amps. Wait about 10 seconds.
3. Voltage: type VoltageSet 230 with your real mains voltage (measure it, or use your nominal 230 / 120 V).
4. Power: type PowerSet 2000 with the load's real wattage (its rating, or better, a measured value).
5. Current: type CurrentSet 8696 in milliamps: watts ÷ volts × 1000. For 2000 W at 230 V that is 8696.
6. Check: Status 8 should now show matching voltage, current and power. EucBuddy shows mains volts and amps again within a few seconds.

Battery, sleep & power-off

Device battery

• EucBuddy's battery is shown top-right (% or V — the Battery option).
• The percentage is a smoothed estimate tuned to the battery's real discharge curve, so it stays steady and counts down evenly instead of jumping around or dropping fast under load.
• On T-Display-S3 the reading is unavailable on USB and while settling after unplugging; an unavailable value does not mean an empty battery. See Section 10.
• At a low level the device warns you (with sound on speaker-equipped hardware).
• At a critically low level it powers off with a "battery depleted" notice (except on the charging screen) — plug in USB-C.

Sleep & wake

• After the inactivity timeout (Auto-sleep) the device sleeps. A button press resets the timer — riding doesn't. Using the WiFi panel counts too, and a CSV download keeps the device awake until it finishes (Section 9).
• Power save turns off the screen but keeps the wheel connection and ride logging active. Press A or B to bring the screen back.
• Power off disconnects. Wake StickS3 with PWR, T-Display-S3 with A or B; it then reconnects and resumes the trip without resetting the counter.
• It also comes back to the ride screen you were last on — not the first one — after a connected sleep or reconnect. (If you'd since hidden that screen, it falls back to the first one.)

If the wheel link drops mid-ride

When the Bluetooth link drops unexpectedly while a ride screen is showing (even with the screen dark in Power save), EucBuddy doesn't end the ride: it shows “Reconnecting” and tries to get the same wheel back for up to 30 seconds. If it succeeds, the same ride carries on, on the same screen, with the connect chime. If it can't, the ride is saved and you're back on the scan list, with a “Link lost” note saying why. (Firmware 0.5.08 or later.)

Cancelling the reconnect

While EucBuddy is reconnecting — after a wake or a mid-ride drop — you'll see “Reconnecting” with B = cancel reconnect along the bottom. Useful when you've walked away from that wheel, or want to hop onto a different one straight away.

• Press B — a “Cancel reconnect?” popup appears. A second B stops trying and takes you back to the scan list; A closes the popup and carries on. Ignore it and it disappears by itself after 10 seconds, reconnecting as usual.
• The reconnect keeps working underneath the popup — deciding to continue costs you nothing.
• A button you were already holding when the screen appeared is ignored, so waking the device with a long press can't cancel anything by accident.
• Cancelling doesn't throw your ride away. Pick the same wheel from the scan list within about ten minutes and the ride carries on where it stopped; pick a different wheel and the old ride is closed and saved first.

Power off

• On StickS3, press PWR while running — the screen goes dark and it switches off. Press it again to start up.
• On either board use menu → Settings → Power off, or the WiFi panel's power-off button. Normal shutdown saves pending data; suddenly removing battery power is not equivalent.
• Switching off while connected to a wheel keeps your place: the next start reconnects to that wheel and resumes the ride, exactly like waking from sleep.
• StickS3 on a charger cannot cut its own power while USB is feeding it, so it goes dark and quiet instead. A or B brings it back; pull the cable and it is properly off.
• T-Display-S3 can enter deep sleep even on USB. A or B wakes it. Avoid holding B across a reset unless deliberately entering the USB flashing mode.

Rides — your ride history

EucBuddy logs every ride automatically. Each entry records the wheel, start & end battery, the voltage range (min–max), top speed, peak current, max PWM (highest motor load — see Section 4), distance, the ride time, the energy used (Wh), the odometer at the start, how many times the device slept mid-ride, and the max temperature. A ride is saved whenever you disconnect or the wheel goes out of range.

On the device — the Rides viewer

• Open it from the carousel (Rides). It works like MyBuddy — a separate screen.
• A scrolls the list (newest first); B opens a ride's details — three big fields at a time across four pages (press A to flip pages, B to close). Time and Energy sit on page 3, next to distance.
• Hold B to delete — all rides from the unfiltered list, or this ride when its details are open (each asks to confirm). Opened from a wheel in My Wheels, hold B on the list does nothing, so it cannot wipe other wheels' rides. Hold A for the main menu.

In the WiFi panel

• The Rides page lists everything with room to scroll back through older rides. Each row shows battery, top speed, peak current, distance, time, Wh, sleeps and max temperature at a glance.
• Tap a ride for a details pop-up; edit any value by hand — including ride time (mm:ss, or h:mm:ss past an hour) and energy — add a ride manually, or delete one. Clearing a time or energy box marks that value as “not measured”.
• Download CSV to keep or analyse your whole history on a computer — the export includes ride_seconds and energy_Wh columns.

Firmware updates

New firmware adds wheel support and features. Updating happens in your browser — no software to install.

Step	Do this
1	On a computer (Windows, macOS, Linux or ChromeOS), open the flasher in Chrome, Edge or Opera. Phones and tablets can't install firmware.
2	Connect EucBuddy with a data-capable USB-C cable and select the exact board: M5Stick-S3 or T-Display-S3.
3	Choose an available firmware channel and follow the prompts. Keep USB connected until flashing finishes. If no port appears, expand the flasher's connection help for your selected board.
4	First install only: if the device isn't licensed yet, a popup asks for your licence code (from your purchase email) and a nickname. Each code activates one device, once; later updates of that device need no code.

Your settings and remembered wheel are kept across updates.

The flasher also has an optional Configure WiFi tick box. Fill in your home network's name and password there and EucBuddy stores them, so it can join your own network instead of making its own hotspot — see Connections in Section 6. The same box has a City field with live search for the weather screen (Section 8) — optional, and changeable later in the WiFi panel. Nothing you type there is sent to our servers; it goes straight to the device over USB.

Open the web flasher →

Updating in the browser

FAQ

Questions? Message us on facebook.com/eucbuddy — happy to help.